Biomacing experts: oil and acne, love or love-hate relationship?

I am always surprised at how often I am asked whether Stark's products, which are all oil-based, are really really are also suitable for acne skin (yes, they are, MORE than just suitable!). For me, the myth that oil causes acne is simply ridiculous, but I didn't always think that way either.

The misconception that oil equals acne is a very narrow approach to the acne problem and has become ingrained in many people's minds, not least because of years of intense brainwashing by the beauty industry. They sell you really bad chemicals with really nice profits for the company. And, the products work. They work in the short term and with a range of side effects.

Yes, drying out a pimple initially makes it smaller and it disappears, but what happens to those parts of the skin that were not yet swollen and painful?

Yes, oily skin can lead to acne. In the same way, dry skin can lead to acne. And fair skin. And even "normal" skin. Absolutely every skin type can become blemished, because they all have the same structure.

Acne occurs when a sebaceous gland is blocked by a hair follicle and bacteria accumulate in this blockage. Bacteria... not oil! Bacteria cause the area to become covered first with white blood cells, then with red blood cells, then the area becomes inflamed - et voilà, a new pimple has formed. Black and white "clogs" (whiteheads and blackheads) are basically the same thing, with blackheads being oxidised sebum. Yummie!

What causes these blockages of the sebaceous glands? Hormones. But why do we sometimes have acne and sometimes not, when we always have hormones in our bodies?

I explain it like this: the skin simply can't breathe properly, and the reason for this is not natural oil, whether produced by your own sebaceous glands or pure argan oil, but a product that simply doesn't belong there. I, for example, get a rash when I'm warm and wearing synthetic fabrics and my hormones are in turmoil. It's the same principle.

The hormone balance is a very fragile system and I am convinced that there are terrible consequences to fear if it gets confused. This applies just as much to shops full of seemingly immobile shoppers as it does to sebaceous glands full of silicones or petrochemicals. Out of the way, you cloggers!

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That's not a particularly medical description, but I live and love skincare so much that I trust my intuition. And, there is no scientific evidence to prove otherwise! Hormones cause acne, blockages clog acne... but how? The skin is simply blocked! Let it breathe, it needs space!

When I say "let your skin breathe", I don't mean that your skin is dirty and needs to be cleansed more often. No! Too frequent cleansing can actually make the skin condition worse. This is also the reason why Stark does not contain a foaming cleanser (that, and the fact that foaming products need harsh preservatives. No, merci.). The skin breathes when it can naturally shed dead skin cells to replace them with new cells. Try shedding your skin when you're wearing a skin-tight polyester disco suit. Well, good luck! Even if this is controversial, I am firmly convinced that the skin is virtually suffocated with a synthetic coat, regardless of whether it is Vaseline, Nivea or thick make-up, and the skin will react to it at some point. And if you are prone to acne, you can grow 1-2 new volcanoes on your face in no time at all.

Now, back to oil.

Yes, some oily substances can lead to blemishes, but not all of them. And yes, sometimes very oily skin tends to have clogged pores because they are overactive and the sebaceous glands fill up, bacteria come into play... you know the rest. But often sebaceous glands are overactive because they are just not getting enough of the nourishing oil they so desperately need. This is why most plant oils that are also bioactive (meaning they are still alive, not processed) react very well with most skin types. These oils protect and nourish the skin while signalling the sebaceous glands to stop overproducing and take a lunch break. (I'm imagining argan oil shouting into the sebaceous gland "hey guys, I'll take care of it, ok" and the sebum, a nervous wreck, retreating shakily and argan oil rolling its eyes. Yes, I really do think of things like that... and anthropomorphise oil. Crazy!)

To come back to the Stark products and their compatibility with acne skin: The CYPRESS Purity + Defence Oil by Stark for the face is perfect for oily and acne-prone skin! Cypress and bergamot regulate overactive sebaceous glands, while argan, camellia and other nut oils are healing and nourishing oils. At the same time, rice bran protects against UV rays!

The expert: Jessica LaFleur, founder of Stark Skincare

The clever and funny tree-hugger and wild child Jessica Lafleur is the founder of Stark Skincare. Her approach to plants, medicine and skincare is characterised by profound knowledge and strong intuition. The fact that all the products she develops are vegan, gluten-free, organic, fair trade and 100% biodegradable is also testament to Jessica's belief that we need to treat the earth gently and wisely. In her column, we learn about her world and always find out something new and exciting from the world of skincare.

Here you will find all Stark Skincare products.