Curly and frizzy hair - the science behind it

Hair is a very complex matter. And we usually want exactly what we don't have. But there are also hair types that require more intensive care: curly and frizzy hair has a very specific structure and requires special care:

Roughly speaking, our hair all has the same structure. Each hair fibre consists of three layers: Medulla (core), cortex (sheath), and cuticle (cuticle layer). When greatly enlarged, it looks like this:

The outermost layer, the cuticle, consists of keratin (a protein) and has the task of protecting the inner structure. The cuticle protects the hair from drying out and, as it is the outermost layer, is responsible for the appearance of the hair. The outer cuticle layer can be rough with individual scales sticking out, or it can be smooth and shiny. If the hair is healthy, the cuticle lies flat, resulting in a smooth surface with a natural shine. The moisture remains in the hair and it stays supple.

If, on the other hand, the cuticle lifts, the hair loses shine and moisture and therefore becomes dry and brittle. In figure a), the cuticle lies flat, which ensures healthy hair. In figure b), the cuticle is raised and the hair appears brittle:

The layer under the cuticle is called the cortex. The cortex contains melanin, which gives the hair its colour. It is also responsible for the hair type: straight, wavy or curly.
Another layer deeper in the hair, and therefore the innermost layer, is the medulla. The medulla influences the colour tone of the hair. It is usually found in long, thick hair, but interestingly not in all hair types.

We now know how hair is structured. But why does every hair type behave differently? And why does curly or frizzy hair in particular often become brittle and dry?

Special care for curly and frizzy hair

The sebaceous glands on the scalp produce sebum. Sebum consists of triglycerides, diglycerides, free fatty acids (about 50-60% in total), wax esters (20-30%), squalene (10-16%), cholesterol (2-4 %) and vitamin E. Its function is to moisturise hair and skin and make them supple. Sebum acts almost like a natural conditioner. In curly and frizzy hair, the shape of the hair makes it difficult for the sebum to reach the bottom of the hair. This means that there is less or no sebum further away from the hair root. The moisture can then escape from the hair structure and the hair becomes dry and brittle. Due to the lack of moisture, the hair also becomes more sensitive and breaks more easily, especially in the case of hair bends.

Curly and frizzy hair therefore needs additional moisture and sebum. The ideal care product has a similar structure and composition to natural sebum in order to moisturise it and store it there.

The solution for curly to frizzy hair that lacks moisture is the HAVANA CURLS Leave-in Conditioner. This special conditioner for curly to ethnic hair is a purely natural product that has been specially developed for these hair types. This leave-in cream contains aqueous extracts, natural hygroscopic substances and a large number of natural components that take over the function of sebum. The result is beautifully shiny, soft and curly hair.

The information for this text was provided by Dr Liset Lüderitz, the developer of Havana Curls.