What is Bakuchiol? Where does it come from and is it a real alternative to retinol, which is effective but associated with side effects? Can bakuchiol even compete with retinol, especially in terms of its effect?
Retinol has long been recognised as a leading active ingredient in the world of skin care products. Dermatologists and cosmeticians mostly use it as an anti-ageing agent or to treat skin blemishes. It is characterised by the fact that it regenerates skin cells, reduces pigmentation spots and improves the complexion of patients with acne. It also stimulates collagen production and visibly reduces wrinkles. All in all, retinol products have proven to be impressively effective and can help with a variety of skin problems. However, this miracle product does have some drawbacks.
Retinol - effective but not always well tolerated
Unfortunately, the active ingredient is not necessarily suitable for every skin type or condition. It often causes redness and skin irritation when applied. Some people generally cannot tolerate cosmetics containing retinol or prefer not to use them due to their vegan lifestyle. Despite all the benefits of retinol preparations, there are therefore a number of reasons to look for a natural alternative to the market leader.
Open the door for Bakuchiol
For this reason, more and more manufacturers are focussing on the active ingredient bakuchiol. This is widely known as bio-retinol or plant retinol. In fact, several studies have shown that the effect in the treatment of certain skin problems is almost identical. Bakuchiol also has a number of other benefits. Retinol and bakuchiol are two fundamentally different substances with different molecular properties. In the course of cosmetic applications, however, they behave similarly.
In the meantime, the "Plant-based retinol alternative" available from many suppliers as a peeling, serum, lotion, night cream or in other forms. But what are these products actually all about? What is Bakuchiol actually? How does Bakuchiol work and what is it used for? Is Bakuchiol a natural active ingredient? Is it vegan? And how do cosmetics made from bakuchiol differ from retinol products? We will take a closer look at all these aspects in the course of the article.
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is an impressively effective herbal and one hundred per cent natural substance. The active ingredient is extracted from the seeds and leaves of a plant called Psoralea corylifolia, popularly known as Babchi tree is referred to as a legume. It is primarily native to India, Sri Lanka and China and belongs to the legume family. It reaches a height of around 50 to a maximum of 90 centimetres and has an extraordinarily pleasant fragrance. In addition, the active ingredient bakuchiol has now been found in lower concentrations in also detected in several other plants become.
In traditional Indian and Chinese medicine, the plant extract has been known for decades for its reliable mode of action. There it is used as an oil to treat a variety of diseases. As some studies have shown, bakuchiol has a reliable effect on various Skin problems such as eczema, irritation or psoriasis. In addition, some studies suggest that the extract could even have a positive effect on diseases such as bone loss or cancer. In Asia, it is sometimes used to treat certain diseases of civilisation.
Although a complete synthesis of bakuchiol was already described in the 1970s, the active substance only included in commercial cosmetic products since 2007. It was first launched on the market under the trade name Sytenol® A by Sytheon Ltd. A wide range of bakuchiol oils of completely different quality is now available.
Bakuchiol is often associated with retinoids (an abbreviation for retinol extracts) due to the similar areas of application and its mode of action. In purely chemical terms, however, the two substances look completely different. Unlike its famous competitor Bakuchiol suitable for vegans and vegetarians as well as during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Due to its good tolerability and naturalness, the retinol alternative is becoming increasingly popular.
Bakuchiol: Effects and areas of application
The The efficacy of Bakuchiol has already been proven in clinical studies in the past. The oil is generally for every skin type suitable. Incompatibilities were extremely rare when using Bakuchiol products. However, it is unclear whether any undesirable side effects are actually related to the active ingredient.
How does Bakuchiol work?
The retinol alternative Bakuchiol Penetrates deep into the skin and thus prevents blackheads and pigmentation spots from forming. The skin is smoothed in the process, which reduces wrinkles and makes the skin look significantly younger. By stimulating the production of collagen, Bakuchiol ensures that Impurities, redness or injuries to the skin can heal more quickly. Bakuchiol also has the following effects Strongly antibacterial. It soothes the skin from the inside out and thus enables healthy cell regeneration. Due to its antioxidant effect, the extract helps to combat free radicals. In contrast to other active ingredients, bakuchiol is characterised by the fact that it generally Very well tolerated is. As it Not as drying or irritating as retinol-products, it can be used twice a day. Ideally, the plant-based oil should be applied in the morning and evening to maximise its effect. For acute skin problems, however, it is used over a short period of time.
Bakuchiol is usually available externally as a serum or lotion. It is advisable to apply the oil first before any other cosmetic products. While products containing retinol should not be combined with certain ingredients, there is no need to worry about the plant extract. To date, it is not known to interact negatively with other skin care substances. Sun cream, peelings, toners and even benzoyl peroxide can therefore be applied without any problems. The pure extract of the babchi tree should always be diluted with coconut oil or other substances before application. As a rule, the mixing ratio of most commercially available bakuchiol products is well thought out and balanced.
With regular use, the Bakuchiol's first successes after one month at the latest. The Skin appears fundamentally healthier and significantly more resilient. Even very large pores disappear within the first few months of treatment.
Bakuchiol and vegan lifestyle
In contrast to retinol-based products, the active ingredient bakuchiol is purely plant-based. This makes it an ideal alternative for all vegetarians and vegans. Nevertheless, it is of course theoretically possible that bakuchiol products also contain certain animal substances. In practice, manufacturers attach great importance to producing vegan products. With most skin care products, consumers can recognise at first glance whether a specific product is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. As always, the key is to take a close look and read the ingredients carefully!
Whilst the retinol alternative definitely consists solely of plant-based ingredients, the situation with the original is completely different. Retinoids are mainly contained in animal substancesHowever, they can also be obtained from plant sources. It is therefore perfectly possible to produce vegan retinol products. However, most cosmetics containing retinol are not suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Scientific background: What is the difference between bakuchiol and retinol?
As previously mentioned, the two active ingredients are two very different substances. As a result, they have Completely different chemical properties on.
We have already discussed the special features and origin of the "plant-based retinol alternative Bakuchiol" in this article. But what is the "original retinol" actually all about? Retinoids are fat-soluble, essential vitamins that are often mistakenly equated with vitamin A. This powerful antioxidant can be used for a wide variety of purposes. It is contained in a variety of foods. As a cosmetic product, it can be harmful to health under certain circumstances. The two derivatives retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate should therefore not be used in personal care products.
Studies on the efficacy of Bakuchiol
On the effectiveness of Bakuchiol compared to retinol products there are Only a few studies to date. The results of the investigations nevertheless seem really promising. In 2014, the results of the first such study were published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. The researchers used synthetic skin and collagen cell cultures to test the anti-ageing effect of bakuchiol. Their results suggest that products containing bakuchiol have very similar gene expression and collagen regulation to retinol cosmetics. In 2018, a second impressive study was conducted and published by the British Academy of Dermatology. In a first twelve-week double-blind clinical trial, both active ingredients were tested on humans. 44 participants received either a serum containing 0.5 % bakuchiol twice daily or a product containing 0.5 % retinol once daily. Their progress was assessed by a dermatologist who did not know which group the subjects belonged to. In both test groups Improvements in hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and redness can be observed.
In this respect, there was no statistically significant difference between the results. Two applications of Bakuchiol should therefore be just as effective as a single application of retinol-containing cosmetics. In addition, the Bakuchiol Group formed Significantly fewer skin flakes than the retinol group. A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2019 came to very similar results. Women were treated with a serum containing bakuchiol and other preparations over a longer period of time. After twelve weeks, the test subjects showed a significant reduction in redness and wrinkles as well as increased skin firmness. Acne and hyperpigmentation were also reduced.
13 Advantages of Bakuchiol
In direct comparison with other active ingredients, it is clear that Bakuchiol has a lot of advantages. Many positive effects of the active ingredient have been mentioned in this article. For better orientation we have to summarise the most important points once again:
- Bakuchiol prevents the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. At the same time, it smoothes the skin so that existing wrinkles can be reduced.
- When used over a longer period of time, Bakuchiol slows down the ageing process of the skin.
- The pigmentation of the skin is visibly improved. Hyperpigmentation is significantly reduced.
- Bakuchiol increases the elasticity and firmness of the affected skin region.
- The plant extract helps the skin to regenerate itself and sustainably repairs old skin damage.
- The active ingredient provides the skin with plenty of moisture. Dryness and rough skin can be reduced with regular use.
- In contrast to retinoids, bakuchiol has excellent stability against UV radiation (photostability).
- Bakuchiol visibly reduces acne and other inflammations as well as bacterial skin infections.
- Unlike other preparations, Bakuchiol can be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding without any problems.
- The purely plant-based extract is natural through and through and, of course, vegan.
- To date, no interactions with certain medicines or other cosmetic products are known.
- Most people tolerate the active ingredient much better than retinoids. It works in the same way as cosmetics containing retinol, but has no undesirable side effects.
- According to medical studies, the vegetable oil is said to have anti-cancer properties and has an antioxidant effect. It fights free radicals in the body and supports cell renewal.
The disadvantage: quality costs
One disadvantage of the retinol alternative is certainly the financial aspect. With a few exceptions, bakuchiol products are usually in the higher price segment. Nevertheless, it is important to buy high-quality products due to their improved effectiveness. When choosing a particular product, it is always worth consulting an expert.
Conclusion
For a long time, retinol was considered the undisputed number one anti-ageing ingredient. Despite some negative experiences and intolerances, the substance has also always enjoyed great popularity in other skin care applications. In the meantime, however, the newcomer Bakuchiol has definitely developed into a promising competitor. For all those looking for a plant-based, vegan and well-tolerated alternative to the market leader, the plant extract could be the right choice.
Of course, despite impressive research results, it is important to bear in mind that not all products on the market are equally effective. And even though the extract is in many cases better tolerated than products containing retinol, its effectiveness cannot of course be guaranteed. In view of the numerous benefits that Bakuchiol brings, it is well worth a try.
Sources:
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24471735
- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3249905/
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- Source for image "Psoralea corylifolia": Biswarup Ganguly https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Gangulybiswarup